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A castle by the sea


Bamburgh Castle

Bamburgh Castle from the south

One of the grandest sights on the Northumbrian coastline is that of Bamburgh Castle. It is a view that I never tire of.

The castle stands on a massive outcrop of rock and towers over the sands below. Unlike many castles on this coast, it is still a family home, and thus far more complete than the ruins elsewhere. It is truly an impressive sight.

There has been a castle at Bamburgh since the sixth century, when the site was chosen as the Royal capital by the kings of Northumbria. And it is easy to see why this site would be chosen. It has commanding views over the coast – a coast that was vulnerable to attack from Vikings and others. And the basalt outcrop on which the successive castles have stood is one of the most prominent landmarks along that coast.

Bamburgh Castle from the dunes

Talking though of the Vikings, in 993 they succeeded in destroying the original fort. The Normans built a new castle on the same site, which forms the core of the present one. It was a royal possession for centuries, and an important element in the defence of England against the Scots, with the border just a few miles to the north. In 1464, during the Wars of the Roses, it was the first castle in England to be defeated by artillery, at the end of a nine-month siege by the Earl of Warwick.

Views of the castle from the beach

For 400 years the castle remained in royal hands, with the local Forster family serving as governors. Eventually the castle was made over to them. But in 1700 the then owner, Sir William Forster, died bankrupt and the castle, along with all his other possessions, was handed over to the Bishop of Durham as settlement of his debts. The castle fell into disrepair but was restored by various owners during the following centuries, and was finally bought by the Victorian industrialist William Armstrong, who completed the restoration. It still belongs to the Armstrong family, who maintain it and open it for the public to view. Its grandeur makes it much in demand as a film location, and it has featured in films such as Ivanhoe (1952), El Cid (1961), Mary, Queen of Scots (1972), and Elizabeth (1998).

Bamburgh Castle from the village

If you like your castles to be romantically ruined, this is maybe not the one for you. But if you like to see a building largely intact and strong, still standing proudly above the coast it once defended so effectively, Bamburgh is indeed an impressive sight.

A walk on the beach

But there is more to Bamburgh than its castle, dominant though that is. There are wonderful beaches that even on the sunniest of summer days are relatively uncrowded, and in winter are almost deserted.

Bamburgh Castle from the beach

This has to be one of the most glorious beaches in England! A wide expanse of sand over which the castle watches protectively as it has done for centuries. There are dunes to provide shelter from the sometimes chilly winds off the North Sea, a few rock pools to explore, great views of distant Holy Island and the slightly nearer Farne Islands, and enough sand to build sandcastles to rival the “real” stone one!

Lindisfarne Castle from Bamburgh beach

Inner Farne viewed from the dunes

Castle and old mill from the dunes

And it is never crowded. When we visited most recently on a warm August weekday, there was a sprinkling of families in the area nearest to the castle, but even here there was more than enough space for everyone. And if you’re prepared to walk along the sands a little, you could easily find a large section to call your own. Off-season, the beach is popular with walkers, but again, by popular I mean that there will always be a handful here, whatever the weather, and maybe on a bright sunny day you will encounter a dozen or more on your walk across the sand.

Seaweed on the beach

South of the village is another fine stretch of sand, with (I think) the two connected at low tide. Here there is a convenient car park so the beach gets a little busier, but is still quiet compared with other parts of the country. The reason? The North Sea is very chilly, and only the braver beach-goers will swim there, though small children seem happy to ignore the chill and splash happily in the shallows. And a cold plunge is perhaps a small price to pay for a day on such a glorious beach!

In the village

Village street with Copper Kettle tea-rooms

In the Copper Kettle

In addition to the castle there is an excellent museum in the village devoted to local heroine, Grace Darling. Add some quaint old cottages and a sprinkling of tea shops (our favourite is the Copper Kettle), pubs and gift-shops, and you can see that it is a great place to spend a day. It's also an excellent base for a holiday in this lovely region of England, with the beautiful and rather mystical Holy Island within easy reach, as well as other castles such as Alnwick and several pretty coastal towns and villages.

Posted by ToonSarah 01:53 Archived in United Kingdom Tagged landscapes beaches castles history views village seaside

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Fantastic. This castle looks truly impressive, especially from the beach. It must be huge.

by Kathrin_E

Perhaps this could be included in the Newcastle VT meet, if it comes to happen...?

by Kathrin_E

Thanks Katherin.
'Perhaps this could be included in the Newcastle VT meet, if it comes to happen...?'
We think alike! It's top of my list for a day trip out of the city IF Newcastle is chosen :)

by ToonSarah

Beautiful castle. I love the fact that it's near the beach. Great photos

by littlesam1

Thanks Larry - yes, it's the perfect setting, isn't it?

by ToonSarah

This could be very well be on my list of stops in England, if (hopefully when) I get there! :)

by hennaonthetrek

Definitely worth a visit Henna, although some find it too well restored and prefer the ruins of Dunstanburgh or Warkworth, for instance - as do I!

by ToonSarah

that sure is an impressive castle ... I like it that it is close to the beach, here in Belgium we don't have that at all!

by Ils1976

If you manage to join us for the VT meet Ils we will be having a day trip here :)

by ToonSarah

I hope I can join, but September is still a long way and I am not sure how things will progress now with new rules and such. I hope to let you know closer to the date! :)

by Ils1976

Of course Ils - and equally if things don't open up as hoped for here I may have to postpone again, although I do hope not! I'll keep you posted via DM here and/or via Facebook.

by ToonSarah

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